Perms in the Salon: Chemistry and Texture Treatments

Perms in the salon rely on a precise chemical interplay of reduction and fixation. Understanding this chemistry leads to more consistent results and protects the client’s hair structure.

Modern texture treatments such as chemical straightening follow similar principles, only in reverse. This article explains the chemistry behind both processes and what matters most when applying them in the salon.

Perms in the Salon: Why Texture Treatments Remain in Demand

Despite many trends, the perm remains a fixture of everyday salon work. Clients today often ask for loose, natural-looking waves rather than tight roller curls. Texture treatments in the salon range from classic perms to chemical straightening. Both techniques are also a core part of apprenticeship training. The article Hairdresser Apprenticeship in Germany describes how trainees learn them.

The Chemistry of Reduction: What Happens to the Disulfide Bonds

In the first step, a reducing agent such as ammonium thioglycolate opens the disulfide bonds in the hair. These sulfur bonds normally hold the hair’s keratin structure in shape. Only about 15 to 20 percent of the existing sulfur bonds are broken in the process. Stronger reduction damages the hair and leads to over-curling.

Fixation Through Oxidation: How the New Shape Becomes Permanent

Fixation chemically reverses the reduction and restores the disulfide bonds in their new shape. Diluted hydrogen peroxide is usually used as the oxidising agent for this step. Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into only water and oxygen and leaves no harmful residue. Between reduction and fixation, the hair swells noticeably and must be rinsed carefully.

Cold Wave, Heat Wave and Variable Systems: Perms in the Salon Compared

The alkaline cold wave, with a pH around 9, delivers strong results but irritates the scalp more often. Mildly alkaline systems reduce this irritation, at only a slightly weaker effect. Neutral systems around pH 7 suit already damaged hair particularly well. Heat-activated methods speed up processing time through added external heat. A detailed overview of the individual wave systems is available at haut.de.

Chemical Hair Straightening as the Counterpart to the Perm

Chemical straightening reverses the principle of the perm and removes the natural wave permanently. Hydroxide-based products such as sodium or guanidinium hydroxide break the disulfide bonds through a strong alkaline reaction. Thioglycolate-based straightening systems, by contrast, work similarly to a perm, just with large brushes or combs instead of rollers. Both systems require careful neutralisation after application.

Assessing Hair Condition Correctly: Strand Test and Porosity

A strand test belongs to professional preparation before every perm or straightening treatment. It shows how the hair reacts to the specific product and what processing time is realistic. The hair’s porosity plays a major role in how quickly the product penetrates and takes effect. The article Hair Structure in the Salon explains how to assess porosity reliably.

Aftercare: Caring for Hair After the Treatment

Freshly treated hair needs special care after a perm or straightening treatment. Mild, low-sulfate shampoos protect the new structure and extend the result. Care products with proteins and panthenol support the repair of damaged hair sections. Without matching aftercare, the effect usually fades noticeably within a few weeks.

Risks and Limits of Texture Treatments

Repeated perms or straightening treatments reduce the hair’s stability over time. Not every sulfur bond fully re-forms after each treatment. Already coloured or severely damaged hair reacts especially sensitively to both processes. When in doubt, honest advice is worth more than another treatment.

Conclusion: Offering Perms in the Salon Safely and Professionally

Perms in the salon can be offered safely and predictably with solid chemistry knowledge. Reduction, fixation and choosing the right system all shape the result and hair health alike. A careful strand test naturally belongs before every treatment. Salons that want to develop their service range professionally can request a consultation with TerraNova at any time.